Images by Charlotte Griffiths
This month, Nicola Foley samples exceptional food from a hidden gem with plenty of flair
Cambridgeshire definitely doesn’t slouch when it comes to lovely countryside gastropubs, but that doesn’t mean it’s any less of a treat when you stumble across a really good one.
The Chequers of Orwell, located around eight miles south of Cambridge, surpasses expectations from the off. From the fragrant, fresh-out-of-the-oven homemade bread which begins our meal to the rich, molten gloriousness of the chocolate fondant which rounded it off, and the friendly, knowledgeable service throughout, there’s little room for much but compliments when it comes to this hidden gem.
Inside, it’s traditional but fresh-looking, and pretty much what you’d expect from a smart rural pub, but the buzz on entering immediately indicates a loyal following of customers.
“The dishes displayed an impressive level of technical skill”
To kick things off, I chose the Parmesan custard – a hot, set cream which delivered a burst of savoury intensity from the cheese, joined by a lovely sweet and smoky hit from the chorizo jam and served with a baby salad in a cute glass jar. Pretty to look at and even better to slurp down slathered on the toasted sourdough bread served on the side.
Equally beautifully presented was my dining partner’s starter, a colourful arrangement of goats’ cheese mousse quenelles with pickled beetroot, spicy pecan and rocket. Displaying an impressive level of technical skill and with expertly balanced flavours, this dish more than lived up to its visual promise.
For my main course, I couldn’t resist the slow roast rump of lamb, which was meltingly tender and accompanied by zingy pomegranate, miso aubergine, and heavenly fondant potato, whilst over on the other side of the table, the duo of pork was going down just as well. An inspired combination of pork fillet and sausage roll with sweet potato, purple broccoli and lentils, it was another lesson in balancing flavours for a truly stellar end product.
My dessert was a dream (if there’s a greater pleasure in life than slicing open a chocolate fondant and seeing that chocolatey ooze, I’ve yet to find it), but my dining partner’s dessert succeeded in stealing the show with a flourish of fine-dining flair.
More closely resembling a piece of modern art than a pudding, this delicately assembled dish incorporated raspberry sorbet, white chocolate and peach parfait and coconut sable Breton shortbread. Total heaven, the desserts ended the meal on a high note and left us both rhapsodising about the exceptional standard of food this tucked-away pub was delivering. Highly recommended.
