This month, Nicola Foley samples the latest succulent treats from restaurant group Cambscusine
Seeing the Cambscuisine logo on a menu is a definitive seal of approval for discerning diners: you just know, without even tasting the food, that a good meal is pretty much a dead cert. This reputation is well deserved – after all, Cambscuisine is one of, if not the, most successful independent restaurant groups in the region.
They consistently hit the mark, whether in the form of top-quality steaks and elegant British fare at the Chop Houses or their hip city centre barbecue joint SmokeWorks. That’s before we even get to Whittlesford’s charming Tickell Arms or Hemingford Grey’s multi-award winning The Cock.
A fan of all of the above, I couldn’t wait to eat at The Crown & Punchbowl, which re-opened following an extensive refurb in February. Set in the chocolate box village of Horningsea, this country pub and restaurant has had a solid reputation on the foodie front for a long while, but the arrival of Cambscuisine promises to have elevated that.
A Grade II listed building which dates back to the 17th century, the pub’s interior has been refreshed and brought up to date whilst retaining appealing original features such as the timber beams and fireplaces. There’s now also a lovely bright, airy conservatory, which leads on to a rather sumptuous looking semi-private dining room, whilst upstairs has had a facelift too, now offering five smart bedrooms.
The menu, pleasingly indulgent, offers up a series of hearty, modern British dishes which feature lots of seasonal ingredients. My eye was caught by the asparagus with poached duck egg and capers, but in the end I couldn’t pass up the lamb scrumpets to start. It’s not a large dish, but it makes an impact with its smoky, melty lamb encased in crispy fried breadcrumbs and served with a roast aubergine dip. The pulled meat, the waiter tells me, is brought over from SmokeWorks, where they take their barbecuing incredibly seriously, cooking the lamb low and slow for hours and hours in an oven especially imported from the barbecue motherland, America. It’s worth it – the perfectly tender consistency and intense flavour are unbeatable.
“Fit for a 19th century banquet, this decadent dish was a showstopper”
My dining partner went for the slightly more sophisticated duck parcel, which was delicate to look at but packed a serious flavour punch. Rich soy and ginger sauce joined by piquant pickled cucumber and tender confit duck, this artfully arranged little package was a lesson in balancing flavours.
It was the main course however, that earned the prize for dish of the night. We went for the beef Wellington for two, which came served with Jersey Royals, buttery cabbage and roasted heritage carrots.
Fit for a 19th century banquet table, this decadent dish was a showstopper and no mistake. Encased in light-as-air puff pastry (no soggy bottoms here – impressive), the star is the butter soft, luxurious fillet of beef, perfectly pink in the middle and the ideal bedfellow for the rich red wine sauce it arrives with. The dish, with its irresistibly juicy beef, whisper of Dijon mustard and hit of pepper, is a dream when paired with the full-bodied, aromatic glass of red I was recommended (the Pech Mege).
Utterly defeated by the scale of the Wellington but determined to soldier on into the dessert menu, we opted for the sticky toffee pudding. Light and fluffy and doused in scrumptious salted caramel sauce, it was the perfect end to a great meal.
With its excellent standard of food, knowledgeable staff (a signature for Cambscuisine restaurants it has to be said) and sophisticated but not stuffy approach, I can see The Crown & Punchbowl becoming a firm favourite on the local dining circuit, and rumour has it we won’t be waiting long for the next Cambscuisine outpost…
