Matthew Boucher, from Thirsty, shares his top wine picks from south-east France
Having once studied in the south-east of France, it has always intrigued me that much of the area’s wine production actually seemed to go unnoticed by the mass market.
My experience at the time showed that students were regularly drawn to excitingly large-format bottles, often in plastic. These blends, interestingly, did not necessarily come from just France, but more likely from several different places in the European Union.
Occasionally I looked at the map to see if there were any local vineyards, thinking that I should sample something which might allow me to break my habits.
“In true Thirsty tradition I made it my business to test the wines on offer”
It seemed that there were, and when checking the shops more carefully, I found that they were available locally. Surprisingly they were only slightly more expensive than the very cheapest wines that my companions and I were used to.
The French Revolution had its origins nearby, and in true Thirsty tradition I made it my business to test the wines on offer as exhaustively as I could.
Most of the generic wines from this area (Savoie) are white (including sparkling) and are made from a grape variety called jacquère. In true French style, you’re unlikely to see the grape mentioned on the label, but instead the names are geographical.
Here are four Thirsty and Savoyard recommendations:
1. The first wine is called Chignin (the name of a village) made from jacquère, which I particularly like. It’s pale, lemon light (only 11.5{b486c5a37ab2d325d17e17d701cb2567b1ecd1814e8ceb33effa2a4f1f171d46} alcohol by volume) and mountain fresh. There’s no oak, so this is a classic uncomplicated aperitif and thus ‘one for the fridge’, you know, just in case…
2. Chignin-Bergeron is from the same village, but is from grapes grown on more sun-soaked, steeper, south-facing slopes. More importantly, Bergeron is a synonym for the Rhône Valley’s Roussanne, so you get a rich style of wine made for your favourite fish dish. I’m thinking of one of customer Will’s freshly caught trout from the River Test plus gratin dauphinois. Or maybe forget the fish and just go for the gratin.
3. I’m deliberately not mentioning the price of this one but you should all try a drop of Gringet. This is a grape that almost died out, but local boy Dominique Belluard (that’s local to Ayse near Chamonix and Mont Blanc, not Cambridge) persevered, often in face of ridicule. He is now having the last laugh and top restaurants are literally fighting to list his wine. His Les Alpes is the cheaper version. The flavour is quite unlike anything else and especially refreshing if you fancy a change from Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay.
4. Finally, may I recommend the firm of Dolin based in Chambéry, Savoie. They make an old-fashioned vermouth brand called Chambéryzette, flavoured with Alpine strawberries, but the flavour is bang up to date, being a post-Brexit challenge to Pimms. Thirsty intends to stock this soon, so watch this space.
