Images: Charlotte Griffiths
Charlotte Griffiths pays a visit to this newly spruced up Girton pub
Nestled on the outer edge of Girton, the Old Crown surprised from the second we arrived. “This is – really nice?” we hissed at each other, as the smiling bar staff showed us through the beautifully appointed restaurant to a table near the fireplace. This historic pub enjoyed an extensive makeover at the start of 2018, with a reported six-figure sum being spent on the interiors: think velvets in rich teals, mustards and jewel-like colourways, plus a copper-topped bar and a few art-deco touches to set the tone. A west-facing garden terrace is perfect for catching the late afternoon sun, while fires keep the venue cosy in the cooler months of the year. Which all adds up to create one of the smartest restaurant interiors in the area.
Though the building is owned by Suffolk-based pubco Greene King, the Old Crown is the newest addition to well-regarded Lavenham-based group Stuart Inns’ roster of boutique restaurants and pubs, including the Lavenham Greyhound and Swan at Long Melford. The Old Crown itself is run independently by manager Paul Richardson and team, and, by all accounts, is going down a storm with locals and visitors alike. And based on our experience, that’s hardly a surprise.
The menus arrived, accompanied by a wine and extensive gin list, and both of us immediately clocked the Old Crown’s ‘bottomless’ brunch offering with unlimited Prosecco, and made a mental note to return. The welcoming front of house team, coupled with the splendidly styled interiors, set the stage with a perfect atmosphere for enjoying an evening meal – it felt like those in charge knew exactly what they were doing. Which, when you consider the pub’s experienced stakeholders, makes sense.
“It’s clear there’s someone talented devising the menu”
We started our meal with a small bowl of rosemary popcorn, before moving on to a beautiful beetroot and goat’s curd salad made with multiple varieties of beetroot and a cool, creamy fresh cheese. My companion tucked into the Old Crown’s black treacle brawn fritter, served with fashionable curry-roasted cauliflower and golden raisins. It’s great to see sustainably-minded ingredients such as pig’s head becoming more and more popular in Cambridge’s restaurants, especially when it’s treated as well as in the Old Crown’s kitchens. Both of the starters were completely delicious, and the style of cooking really let the seasonal produce speak for itself: it’s clear that there’s someone talented devising the menu.
For mains we tried one of the two vegetarian dishes: chive gnocchi with fennel, asparagus, watercress cream and crunchy toasted seeds, which was comforting without being too heavy, as gnocchi dishes often can be. The asparagus and fennel were a real taste of summer and ably demonstrated how vegetarian dishes can be inventive and elegant.
When reviewing a restaurant, it’s important to show balance – so the other dish we picked to contrast the gnocchi was a Hereford sirloin steak served with a rustling heap of triple-cooked chips, a confit shallot and generous slick of beef-based sauce. We genuinely had a tricky time selecting our mains from amongst the exceedingly tempting list of dishes: butter-poached hake, lamb belly and a pork wellington feature, along with a rump steak, an aged beef burger and an IPA-battered fish of the day – but were delighted with the creations presented to us, and cleared our plates with ease. The Old Crown’s plates deserve a brief mention: ceramics which are contemporary, but not in a way which impedes eating or distracts from the presentation of the food – another example of the management’s expertise and experience winning the day.
Dessert was again a challenge to choose, but in the end a toasted lemon meringue pie and the spectacular-sounding (and looking) multilayered chocolate and pistachio millefeuille won our hearts. We shared the sweet courses, as well as a Toffee Apple cocktail from the Old Crown’s well-balanced cocktail list, cleared our plates, said our goodbyes and headed off into the night.
The Old Crown is a perfect example of a well-judged local pub with the style, class and menu offering to lure those living further afield. It’d be the perfect spot for a celebratory evening out with family, or simply a midweek treat – and if brunch is your bag, then that bottomless offer sounds like an ideal way to while away a couple of hours. Girton, you’re a lucky village indeed: let’s hope the Old Crown’s newest incarnation is here to stay.
What: Gorgeous, newly refurbed gastro pub serving up cocktails, elegant food and brunches.
Where: 89 High St, Girton
How Much: Starters from £6 and main courses between £14.50 for harissa falafel and £22 for Hereford Sirloin Steak with triple-cooked chips.
