Permission to Revel
From Bombay to Trinity Street, we get the latest on the opening of Permit Room Cambridge with co-founder of Dishoom, Shamil Thakrar
Transport yourself to 20th-century Bombay. It is 1949, two years since India gained independence and the Bombay Prohibition Act has recently been passed, restricting the consumption of liquor in the city. Bombayites begin to bootleg discreetly in the backstreets while ‘aunty bars’ pop up in various locations: women covertly serving drinks from their front rooms.
Restrictions loosen as the years pass and in 1970, those who have obtained a permit may partake in liquor for health purposes.
So began the life of the permit room – small drinking spots often in easy-to-miss locations where people would gather and boundaries of class and caste would slowly erode in a convivial atmosphere; where hard liquor would be served alongside chakli and peanut masala.
Today, permit rooms are a dying breed – but for Shamil Thakrar, co-founder of the Bombay-inspired restaurant Dishoom, their spirit lives on.
“We’ve spent countless nights in Bombay’s permit rooms, creating fond memories during our travels,” he recalls. “Joyous hours have passed with friends, gathered around chakli and chicken pick-me-ups (as food invariably takes centre stage in permit rooms!), accompanied by refreshing ice-cold beers or a blend of Old Monk and Thums Up.”
With only a handful of original permit rooms remaining, they retain the clandestine air that led to their inception, creating a sense of having stumbled upon a hidden gem, a local secret spot.From Bombay to Trinity Street, we get the latest on the opening of Permit Room Cambridge with co-founder of Dishoom, Shamil Thakrar
Inspired by this heritage, it’s an atmosphere you can now experience for yourself by passing through the mustard-coloured doors of number 17 Trinity Street, as Dishoom opens what is just its second Permit Room location.
A new venture
Permit Rooms mark a new endeavour for Dishoom as a sub brand that began with its first-ever location in Brighton last year. Dishoom itself harkens back to 2010, when Shamil and his cousin, Kavi, founded the restaurant group to pay homage to the food of Bombay and the culinary heritage of Irani cafes in the 20th century.
“We felt that mainstream perceptions of Indian food and culture in the UK were perhaps slightly worn and clichéd,” shares Shamil. “The Irani cafes were known for bringing together a real mix of people – rich and poor, young and old, people of all backgrounds – over shared tables and tasty food and drinks. We have been inspired by this idea at Dishoom and it extends to our menu. We adore serving dishes cooked in Parsi, Muslim, Hindu and Christian traditions, which jostle together on our tables for space.”
For both cousins, opening a bar had been a decades-long dream, and Cambridge proved the perfect location to continue this new venture.
“When I think back to my early twenties, I vividly remember Cambridge pub crawls and gate-crashing college parties. I have very rosy memories of hanging out there, and I’m so excited to return with our own Permit Room.”
On the menu
Described as an all-day bar-cafe, Permit Room differs from ordinary Dishoom restaurants in that the menu is primarily designed to work around drinking. “You might like to come in, have a few drinks and enjoy some of the menu alongside, but equally, we’ll be there to sort out your hangover with a bacon naan roll the next morning,” Shamil says. Meanwhile, his Permit Room go-to is the crispy spinach chaat: “I love the tangy crispiness of it.”
In addition, there’s a full menu of bar snacks, curries (including the classic Dishoom chicken ruby), larger sharing plates and sweet treats to choose from, like the mango lassi soft serve in a waffle cone garnished with sugar-coated fennel.
Served in an atmospheric setting of chic, 70s retro interiors dotted with artwork from Bombayites and Cambridge locals alike, there’s inevitably a knock-out line-up of cocktails to decide between.
Paying homage to Bombay’s colourful drinking past, take your pick of invigorating highballs, reimagined classics, on the rocks and teetotal options. Wherever possible, the brand puts local collaborations front and centre, featuring IPAs and lagers from nearby favourites Wylde Sky Brewing & Taproom, while coffee is sourced from Wood St Coffee in Saffron Walden.
Above all, music plays a major role. Revellers can let loose with weekly DJ sets, including a strong vinyl programme delivered in partnership with a local record store. A happening enclave that’s convivial and cosmopolitan, you’ll be hard pressed to find a reason to leave.
“We want Permit Room to have a relaxed vibe, where guests can come in for breakfast and stay for many hours, longer than anticipated.”
Permit Room Cambridge opens on 20 June. 17 Trinity Street, Cambridge CB2 1TB
