Those good at sniffing out an excellent curry will doubtless know about Lalbagh, the award-winning Indian and Bangladeshi restaurant in Bourn. But did you know about its sister restaurant?
Situated in Sawston High Street, Rang Mohol was opened by the same brothers, Miftaur and Mumitur Choudhury, last year and serves up the same mouth-watering menu, focusing on authentic flavours and quality ingredients. Like Lalbagh, the Rang Mohol experience is all about fine yet affordable dining.
The restaurant is all understated, contemporary sophistication, with cool greys and whites allowing the sizzling colours of the food to really pop. There’s an unexpected touch in the giant bubble tanks, glowing like nightclub walls: a welcome move forward from those moving pictures of Niagara Falls that you used to, inexplicably, find in your local curry shop…
The menu, too, is absolutely up-to- the-minute, offering several (but not an overwhelming number of) pages of house specialities: fish, tandoori, mossala, balti, bhuna and dansak dishes. We started with poneer pakora appetisers: balls of soft, Indian cottage cheese and vegetables in crisp, deep- fried batter. I also treated myself to the ‘famous’ lamb cutlets, a succulent on-the- bone appetiser in a secret, home-made marinade. Delicious.
Meanwhile, my vegetarian dining partner was served the chat poti, a delicate little showstopper of dainty, hollow shells into which chickpea and potato filling is spooned. A street food dish popular in many parts of India, it’s eaten in one crunchy mouthful.
For main course I chose the lamb tikka labbabder, with a sweet mango lassi, and my companion went for the vegetable dansak. My dish, a house speciality, arrived sizzling and served with a green garnish of fresh spring onion and coriander. The meat was beautifully lean and the hearty onion and cream-based sauce carried just a hint of warming spice – a perfect winter’s dish.
The dansak offered up a completely different, almost sweet and sour taste, with the refreshing tomato flavour really coming through, serving up a little more of a chilli kick. My dining chum also approvingly noted the range of vegetables incorporated.
We couldn’t find anything wanting with this top-standard curry; everything from the warm, deliciously fresh naan bread to the expertly balanced flavours was executed to perfection. Spices are sourced with care from the best London suppliers, and while my tolerance remains fairly low down the spice barometer, there’s plenty to satisfy if you’ve more of a head for heat.
While Lalbagh continues to bring home the awards, it’s likely we’ll soon be hearing more from this newest member of the family. It’s a shorter drive away (just seven miles from Cambridge), with all the style, service and know-how the Choudhury brothers have become synonymous with. There’s no doubt that Rang Mohol is a lesson in delicious fine Bangladeshi and Indian dining.
Prices range from £7.20 to £15.50.
76-78 High Street, Sawston CB22 3HJ, 01223 577540