Think only bad things happen when you mix beer and wine? Think again, says Thirsty’s Elodie Cameron
A fascinating thing happens when you get like-minded people together from different places and with different experiences; dynamics can create exciting new things. We all know that old adage not to mix the grape and grain – those words of wisdom echoed through many student halls, usually ignored with unpleasant consequences. But maybe it isn’t so crazy after all, when you get the right people involved. It’s all about vision, knowing what you’re doing and being good at it.
Our story begins with two guys: Matthias from Germany and Mikkel from Denmark. Matthias Meierer is a winemaker with a clear philosophy. He lives and breathes winemaking, as has his family since they established their estate in 1767. He champions his wine region, the Mosel, spreading the word and sharing his passion and his love for this unique terroir and the noble grape that he nurtures there – Riesling. The unique combination of slate coupled with slopes of up to 85% incline ensures this region and its wines are like no other. The slate creates a heat-storage system and provides the vines with minerals, as Matthias puts it: “Riesling plus slate equals 100% love.” The incline of the slopes turns this man into a mountaineer – it takes three times the effort to look after these vines than it does to a flat vineyard (and there is no machinery to help). Everything must be done by hand, but Matthias wouldn’t want it any other way, as it allows him to know and understand his wine better. Picking grapes by hand with two buckets to allow him to sort as he goes, building calves and determination of steel, but he loves the ritual and the results are worth all the effort. When we met Matthias we were instantly drawn in, his dedication and focus immediately clear both in the man and his wines. The wines range from dry and off-dry through to sweet, and wow do they blow your socks off! Lip-smacking acidity, elegance and backbone, the minerality shines through in all his wines.
“It’s all about vision, knowing what you’re doing, and being good at it”
Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, meanwhile, is a brewer with a clear philosophy to create great beers using the best ingredients, working with talented and creative people around the world – now that sounds fun! He wants to challenge people’s taste buds, make them think about beer and enjoy the flavours and styles, and make beer a sophisticated accompaniment to food. Ten years ago he was a maths and physics teacher experimenting in his Copenhagen kitchen, and now he exports to over 50 countries, is involved in a string of bars and restaurants and is acknowledged as one of the most innovative and experimental brewers in the world – not bad. With locations as far reaching as Stockholm, San Diego and Tokyo (each one is totally individual: this is not a chain concept,) there is a clear thread of creativity and style. Being known as ‘the godfather of gypsy brewing’ is a statement to live up to, but with beers such as Chill Pils Yuzu, Milk Stout, Green Gold IPA, American Dream Lager, Hallo Ich Bin Berliner Weisse Mango to name but a few, Mikkel manages to do just that. And let it be known: this man has even made a beer with Rick Astley…
What happens when you bring these men together? Well, one thing is great wine and the other is great beer – with wine in it! The Mikkeller Beer Geek Riesling (made by Mikkel using Matthias’ grapes) is a wine made for beer drinkers. There has also been a spontaneously fermented beer blended with Riesling juice and even a dry hopped Riesling – intriguing indeed, and it makes you want to know, and taste, more.
You may now get the chance. Join Thirsty Cambridge for the Mikkeller/Meierer weekend of Untold Dreams, from 8 to 10 September, which will include a tutored tasting with Matthias Meierer and a Mikkeller Tap Takeover at Thirsty Chesterton Road and Thirsty Riverside. For details, visit the website.
