Images: DAISY DICKINSON
This month, Nicola Foley samples succulent French flavours on Trumpington Street
A handsome townhouse on Trumpington Street, Hotel du Vin sits proudly among its history-steeped neighbouring buildings. It was converted into a boutique hotel back in 2007, immediately becoming a front runner in the local dining scene – a shining beacon in what was then a rather barren foodie landscape in the city. Things have moved on drastically since then but Hotel du Vin remains a go-to for a fancy dinner or special occasion.
Hotel du Vin is a chain, but a clever one, which continually endeavours to imbue its outposts with individuality and local character. Accordingly, the Cambridge branch is adorned with artistic depictions of students at May Balls and references to the university. Joined by grand fireplaces, dark wooden floors and antique light fittings, the whole place feels decidedly luxurious, but never stuffy.
Beautiful bedrooms (of which there are 41) and stylish subterranean cocktail lounge aside, there’s a strong focus at Hotel du Vin on the food. As the name suggests, the menu takes its inspiration from French cuisine, and the menu groans under the weight of Gallic indulgences like moules marinière, saucisson en brioche and chateaubriand (a sharing steak which would have definitely made its way to my plate had I not been dining with a vegetarian). Which brings me to my first observation on the food: there’s a definite emphasis on meat – par for the course when it comes to a restaurant serving up French style food, perhaps, but something to consider if you don’t eat meat.
That said, my dining partner very much enjoyed her dainty tomato consommé starter, with its colourful roasted heritage tomatoes and basil-infused tapioca. A lovely light dish, perfect for a warmer evening. I, meanwhile, went for the rather more decadent limousin beef carpaccio: a sizeable platter of exquisitely tender beef slivers accompanied by boudin blanc and quail Scotch eggs, edible flowers and roasted garlic cloves.
It was more meaty indulgence with my pork belly main – also generously sized – which came drizzled with a rich jus de veau. The Gloucester Old Spot pork belly was perfectly done (crispy skin, chewy fat, soft meat and plenty of flavour), and the accompanying mound of creamy pomme mousseline was gloriously buttery. A match made in heaven for the fruity Côte de Rhone recommended by our waiter.
“A match made in heaven for the fruity Côte de Rhone recommended by our waiter”
Over on the other side of the table the sweetcorn and courgette cakes were being devoured. Fluffy on the inside with a crisped exterior, they were served with steamed spinach and a swoosh of salsa verde, lovely to look at, and they more than delivered on the taste front too.
Ignoring our already overfilled bellies, we pored over the dessert menu gleefully. I could have happily scarfed down anything on the list (or indeed the spectacular looking cheese trolley), but I went for the salted caramel fondant, served with crème anglaise. The sponge may have been ever so slightly underdone but it didn’t diminish my enjoyment of this dish, which made exquisite use of that alchemic combination of toasted sugar, rich butter and bitter sea salt.
Not to be outdone in the sugar consumption stakes, my dining partner was happily digging into a huge crème brûlée. After begging for a spoonful, I echoed her positive noises: it was the optimal blend of rich, creamy custard underneath with perfectly crisped caramelised sugar on top. Had we not both been driving, we’d have headed downstairs to the gorgeous cocktail bar. Open to everyone, it’s one of the nicest spots in city for an expertly crafted cocktail.
