It’s a bit of a travesty that this was my first time dining at De Luca, Regent Street’s sophisticated little Italian eaterie and bar. I’d heard great things however, so it was with eager anticipation that my dining partner and I escaped the chill of a gloomy January evening and slipped inside the buzzing restaurant. The first thing that struck us was how it busy it was – De Luca is evidently a hugely popular choice for discerning local diners, and I was quickly beginning to see why.
With statement red walls, an open-plan kitchen, exposed brickwork, a large skylight and twinkling candles on the tables, the décor is stylish and cosmopolitan, whilst also managing to feel welcoming and relaxed. Before sitting down to the main event, we were asked if we’d like to venture upstairs to the restaurant’s cocktail bar for a drink, an offer which we enthusiastically accepted. Reminiscent of a New York loft – complete with low lighting, squishy leather sofas, ambient jazz and iconic black and white photos on the walls – this is a real hidden gem, with a lovely, intimate atmosphere and an extensive cocktail menu. Nonetheless, our friendly mixologist encouraged us to go off-piste with our drinks selections, whipping us up two bespoke creations based on our favourite spirits and flavours (mine a refreshing raspberry elderflower Collins and my companion’s a potent and delicious hybrid of a sidecar and a Martini). If you fancy having a go on the other side of the bar, De Luca also offers interactive cocktail classes, where you and your group will have the run of the bar, mixing up drinks under the guidance of one of the experienced bartenders (available for groups of 6-24 people, £25 per person).
Suitably warmed up, we headed downstairs to claim our table in the restaurant area, opting for a bottle of Gavi di Gavi under the owner’s recommendation (an immensely quaffable, Chablis-esque white which I made a note to seek out in future) and began the task of deciding what to order – no mean feat when presented with a menu as mouth-watering as De Luca’s. After much deliberation I decided to start with the arancini – a Sicilian delicacy and personal favourite of mine which is woefully rare on menus in this country. De Luca’s take on this rice-based dish, with its smoky chorizo, gloriously gooey fontina cheese and roast pepper and cream pesto encased in crispy breadcrumbs, was exceptional. My dining partner was equally pleased with his choice of deep-fried squid, which arrived succulent, perfectly seasoned and accompanied by a deliciously tangy home-made sweet chilli relish. The superb standard was maintained when it came to our main courses. I kept it traditional once more, selecting the handmade ravioli stuffed with goat’s cheese and shallots with sage butter and topped with caramelised red onions. It might not be especially adventurous but the classic pairing of luxurious, creamy goat’s cheese with the rich sweetness of red onions was an indulgent delight. On the other side of the table, the main menu had been eschewed in favour of the lamb and caponata special – and rather special it was too. The rack of lamb was melt-in-the-mouth tender, and the caponata (a sort of Italian ratatouille) provided a medley of sweet peppers, fennel and leeks, all beautifully cooked and bursting with colour and flavour.
When it came to dessert, we felt it only right to go for a true Italian classic: a brilliantly boozy tiramisu which was light and creamy with a kick of espresso, and one of the best I’ve ever tasted. A digestif came in the form of a shot of chilled Limoncello; the almost fluorescent yellow, citrus-scented liquor that heralds from the Amalfi Coast – a delicious denouement to a delectable dinner. We left De Luca’s raving about the super friendly service and the incredible food. In my opinion it’s the best Italian restaurant in Cambridge, and in fact one of the best meals I’ve had in the city in some time. It might be a teensy bit out of the way if you’re in the city centre, but it’s well worth the trip – I’m already planning my next visit.
83 Regent Street, Cambridge 01223 356666
www.delucacucina.co.uk
