Chef’s Choice
Edition’s Phoebe Harper swaps the city for the countryside for an evening tasting menu
Ahalf-hour drive from central Cambridge, we reach the sleepy village of Balsham at 7.30pm,
as per the strict instructions from our host for the evening, Alex, who advised arriving early for a prompt 7.45pm start.
The quaint, thatched exterior of The Black Bull is obscured by the early evening dark as the inviting smell of wood smoke drifts on the wind and we wander towards the old pub like weary travellers from days of yore.
Inside, we find punters gathered round a cavernous brick fireplace in plump leather armchairs.
We are here to sample the chef’s tasting menu and are escorted away from the pub’s atmospheric heart to the private function room – a converted barn that has been tastefully decorated with fairy lights strewn from the high, vaulted, oak-panelled ceiling.
Several candlelit tables are spaced around the room as slow piano jazz plays in the background.
Each table soon fills with diners, many of whom transpire to be regular tasting night attendees – ever since head chef Rob Burling launched these events, they have gathered quite the foodie following.
Alex tells us how Rob himself appeared at The Black Bull rather serendipitously during the pandemic, blown in from the Caribbean island of Mustique just as the pub had an opening.
Ever since, Rob has maintained The Black Bull’s reputation on the Cambridgeshire culinary scene, along with its esteemed AA Rosette rating.
ON THE MENU
From cattle horns to posters celebrating Balsham’s prize bulls, the pub is proudly furnished with decorative touches in homage to its namesake – to the extent that I am surprised by the absence of beef on this particular menu.
Nevertheless, the six courses present a mouth-watering offering for the evening, albeit a fairly safe selection.
To bolster the experience, I opt for the additional wine flight pairing and would recommend anyone who isn’t driving do the same.
A word of warning, though – choose a dining partner with whom you are unlikely to have fantastic conversation, otherwise you will find yourself continually double-parked, trying to savour the last buttery taste of a scallop with the chenin blanc, while a refreshing sauvignon blanc slowly warms next to you.
Welsh rarebit is an unexpected start, as something you might associate with the classic pub menu, but it’s shortly followed by a real highlight – pan-seared scallop with smoked white pudding, leek, samphire and
rocket oil.
The scallop is cooked perfectly, surrounded by a leek that has languished in the sumptuous oil, before being draped seductively around the plate. The samphire adds a delicate, briny flavour which I find to be overpowered by the meatiness of the white pudding, but nevertheless delicious.
The seafood theme continues with a beautifully flaky portion of hake, served with Tenderstem broccoli and coconut creamed spinach, a possible hint to Rob’s experience cheffing on tropical shores.
The next course provides a medley of flavours that I’d like to linger on the tongue all evening: a ripe Cave de Fleurie beaujolais is the perfect partner to the slow-braised pork cheek, soaking in a jus alongside charred shallots and finished with hazelnuts.
This taste reverie is shattered by a lime parfait whose citrus I find so overwhelming it’s more a palate obliterator than cleanser, though a shard of dark chocolate helps downplay the sour sting and works nicely with my red wine from the previous course.
Finally, an apple financier flirting with blackberries and a dollop of ice cream, accompanied by a glass of bergerac, ends things on a pleasingly honeyed note.
THE VERDICT
The menu strikes the perfect balance in terms of volume, leaving you satisfied but not full to bursting.
The synchronicity of the service must also be commended, flowing seamlessly throughout the night.
Although I found the menu choices unadventurous, they complement the rustic, gastropub environment.
It has the feel of an intimate supper club, especially as the chef and our extremely personable host make their way around each table afterwards.
When another season turns, and a new menu is curated, I dare say I’ll rejoin our fellow tasting menu followers.
