The first instalment of its new residency series, cult seafood favourite, The Suffolk, takes over Parker’s Tavern restaurant. Edition’s Phoebe Harper pulls up a seat
Situated in the stately Cambridge landmark of the University Arms, Parker’s Tavern restaurant serves as a loyal homage to the hotel’s historic coaching inn roots while embracing the modern influence of a latter-day British eatery. This refined, cosmopolitan setting is a stark contrast to the sweeping landscapes of rural Suffolk, which are framed by a ragged coastline dotted with picturesque towns and villages, where garishly painted fishing boats are scattered along pebbled beaches fringed by a restless North Sea.
Under these dramatic and changeable skies, the town of Aldeburgh occupies an elevated position on the bucket list of any seaside visitor – a reputation which is further cemented by The Suffolk, a newly restored hotel that is sympathetically located on the town’s historic High Street. The Suffolk’s prestige is greatly enhanced by Sur-Mer, its Michelin-starred restaurant whose rooftop terrace affords a perfect lookout for the chosen few.
Despite the difference in settings, these two prestigious establishments joined forces earlier this year in an innovative collaboration, marking the first of Parker’s Tavern’s residency series for 2024. Over two days, the like-minded forces fused their inspirational elements of expertise to execute an indulgent experience that showcased the culinary gems of East Anglia prepared in situ by visiting chefs, offering city diners the chance to sample the county’s finest.
Working together as kindred spirits, The Suffolk’s mouthwatering menu was paired with a list of seafood friendly wines handpicked by the Parker’s Tavern team. Meanwhile, head chef Tom Payne took up residence in the Tavern’s kitchen to fully display his individual repertoire of exceptional ingredients used in a modest selection of signature dishes.
On The Menu
As my dining partner and I settled into the comfortable collegiate elegance of the dining room, we were both eagerly anticipating the fruits of this inaugural exchange. A peaceful ambience of stylish sophistication was heightened by the crisp bottle of Sancerre that we chose for the table, which was swiftly followed by our starters; a deliciously briny shellfish bisque and dressed crab served with pickled cucumber and avocado.
The piece de resistance came with the main course, as we ordered a full native East Coast lobster at the recommendation of a member of The Suffolk’s team. It was luxuriantly draped with lashings of garlic butter and cooked to perfection with succulent meat coming away from the claw. We also chose the Halibut en croute served with a lobster mousse and beurre blanc. It was sumptuous and indulgent, with a flavour I would find hard to replicate. Our only regret was that we had not made two lunch bookings, so that we might shared the full lemon sole cooked over coals. To finish, a sea buckthron and Pump Street Chocolate ice cream sundae served as a coastal twist on a PT classic: pudding proof of a successful collaboration.
Attended throughout by staff from both establishments, the dining experience was both informative and immensely pleasurable and merits full recommendation to anyone wishing to embark on further culinary adventures hosted at this iconic Cambridge venue.
The Parker’s Tavern residency series continues with a taste of the American Deep South, as Higgsy’s, purveyors of Cambridgeshire’s Best Burger will host a two-day pop-up this late May Bank Holiday. Higgsy’s x Parker’s Tavern takes place on Sunday 26th and Monday 27th May, open daily from 12 – 8pm.
