After months of renovation, the Rupert Brooke pub in Grantchester reopened at the end of last year. It was bought by Chestnut Inns, a small independent group, and having enjoyed a superb Sunday lunch at The Packhorse Inn, their sister pub in Moulton, I was keen to see how they had put their stamp on this popular village local.
Named after the famous war poet who lived in the village (and wrote about it wistfully from the front line in The Old Vicarage, Grantchester), this pub is an integral part of Grantchester’s history and identity. Chestnut Inns have recognised this (excluding the modern extension), updating the interiors with traditional sensibilities in mind. Photos of Brooke as a boy are hung on the back wall of the dining room, and I particularly liked the cosy, library style snug by the stairs, with its dark leather winged armchairs and low-lit lamps.
This air of rustic, rural England translates to the menu, which tempted us with delicious-sounding, earthy dishes like mushroom and truffle omelette, game shepherd’s pie and pork belly with parsnips and pears.
Today, I was treating my mum to dinner after a day of shopping and catching up on all the family news. As a starter, she chose the apple, hazelnut and celeriac soup: a warming dish with beautiful wintry flavours. It was served in a deep, black bowl allowing its fresh greens to really pop. Since it’s not the sort of thing I have at home, I picked the snails, which were amongst the best I’ve had – reassuringly firm with a buttery, garlicky finish.
The Sunday roast looked too good to miss, and I was won over instantly at the sight of the huge, crispy Yorkshire pudding coming my way. The accompanying thick slices of Suffolk beef were soaked in ample gravy (more bonus points) and the roast spuds were perfectly crisp on the outside, giving way to a soft, fluffy interior.
Though they didn’t have redcurrant jelly, as requested by my mother (she’s obsessed with the stuff after learning that Mary Berry puts it in everything), the obliging staff did bring a pot of cranberry sauce to go with her saddle of lamb. This tasty dish came with dauphinois potatoes and English tenderstem broccoli, moistened by its own lamb and onion- based gravy.
Too full for a chocolate fondant (with macadamia nut ice cream! Next time…), I chose instead the banoffee and fudge brûlée as something new, and the mater stuck with a classic and chose apple tarte Tatin. Mine, made with real vanilla custard, was very sweet and thick, topped with banana fritters and honeycomb. The apple tart might have been the best choice, with its delicate slices of refreshing fruit and crisp base.
My revelation of the night, however, was the wine. It’s promised on the menu that the Italian Bacca Nera will change your life, and I was thoroughly impressed with its sweet, black-fruit taste – lovely.
Both our mains came in at £18, with starters and puds around the £7/£8 mark. It sounds a little steep for a roast, but fair considering the quality, choice and tasteful, ambient surroundings. It’s no doubt that dinner at The Rupert Brooke is something to write home about.
2 Broadway, Grantchester, Cambridge CB3 9NQ, 01223 841875
