Hot tomato
It’s summer, which means we’ve reached peak tomato season. Elisha Young (aka @elisha.eats on Instagram) investigates how to make the most of this fleeting window of opportunity
Does anyone actually like supermarket tomatoes? It’s not even surprising that most children will refuse to eat them (I should know, I was one of them) when they’re essentially tasteless, watery mush. Something that’s been shipped from several countries over, artificially ripened with ethylene then stored in a cold fridge is never going to be particularly nice. Especially because low temperatures make tomatoes go mealy and unpleasant to eat.
But cooked tomatoes? Those I can get on board with. Cooking reduces their acidity, increasing the sweetness and umami so they morph into something much more palatable. The same is true of sun-dried tomatoes, which are rich, juicy and enjoyably chewy.
And fresh, in-season tomatoes? They’re delicious in a whole different way. Packed with flavour and a wonderful balance of sour, savoury and sweet, they’re available in a rainbow of colours and huge range of sizes – from tiny yellow cherry tomatoes to the renowned San Marzano variety often used on pizzas (see my July 2024 column for local pizzeria recommendations) and enormous, bulbous beefsteaks. Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, whether you prefer crisp and fresh or hearty and dense.
For proper, locally grown tomatoes, I highly recommend Fen Tomato Farm (@fentomatofarm), which you can find at Cambridge Market and Ely Market. The stall boasts the most incredible selection in every size, colour and shape imaginable, with friendly, knowledgeable staff happy to help you choose the right variety. Any good greengrocer or local market stall is sure to stock ripe tomatoes far superior to the ones you can find in supermarkets.
If you prefer your tomatoes prepped for you, Provenance Kitchen serves up burrata with chargrilled tomatoes, golden marjoram and fig leaf oil, which sounds tasty enough to convert any sceptic.
For a cooked option, the menu also includes Turkish eggs poached in a spiced tomato sauce with labneh and greens. Meanwhile, Al Pomodoro roughly translates to ‘with tomato sauce’ in Italian, so of course the restaurant’s menu includes spaghetti al pomodoro alongside many other tomato-based dishes.
Further afield, you can find The Royal Oak in Barrington; it’s one of the nicest pubs I’ve ever visited, situated in a picturesque location on the longest village green in the country. One of the vegetarian offerings is a grilled halloumi flatbread with tomato, red onion, sun-dried tomato mayonnaise and seasoned fries, which sounds like a summery feast.
But if you’re lucky enough to have homegrown tomatoes – either from your own garden or a friendly neighbour – the best thing to make is a tomato sandwich. This recipe is popular in the US during the summer and is endlessly adaptable to your tastes depending on your bread, seasoning and choice of inclusion (a slice of cheese is popular). The key to making it a success is, well, a delicious tomato. A large variety works best for thick, sturdy slices.
Lightly toast some soft white bread until it’s just started to turn golden brown, then slather both pieces with good-quality mayonnaise. Lay down your tomato slices and season them generously with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
You can add another layer of tomatoes here if you’d like, but be sure to season them as well. Press the other piece of bread on top, slice your sandwich on the diagonal and consume immediately so you can best enjoy the gentle crunch of the bread with lashings of creamy mayo and plenty of ripe, juicy tomato – bursting with flavour.
