The fringe villages of Cambridge are peppered with excellent gastro pubs for those looking to get out of the city and enjoy the traditional country pub experience. Last month I discovered a new one, The Blue Lion in Hardwick, which impressed me with its imagination and its cosy, bustling atmosphere.
It’s always nice to see an establishment doing something a little different from the norm, and I found originality and flair in abundance at this quaint village local. The pub dates from 1737, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about the menu which takes on board new trends (like the veggie-friendly macaroni cheese burger) without neglecting old favourites such as fish and chips.
Likewise, the décor is rustic but contemporary, with exposed brickwork, big gilded mirrors and low timber beams all adding to the character.
To start, I chose the arancini risotto balls, served with a creamy, wild mushroom sauce and watercress garnish. The breadcrumbs were crisp and there was plenty of the hot, melty filling to satisfy. My partner was pleased with his choice of the smoked haddock scotch egg served with curry-spiced mayonnaise – a successful, lighter take on the usual sausage meat variety.
Mains ranged from steak, burgers and fish options to an interesting-sounding halloumi, butternut squash and tomato tagine, but it was the confit of duck special that got my vote in the end. This substantial and delicious dish comprised a tender, almost caramelised skin-on leg of duck on a bed of creamy mash and rich, red cabbage. Every element of the dish was perfect, down to the side of buttered spring greens – and the portion was so huge that I was obliged to take a generous serving home to enjoy all over again for lunch the next day.
My partner tucked into to another special, the sea bream with noodles and Thai vegetables. Again, the portion was generous (perhaps a little too much so) and the flavours spot on, with a lovely South Asian tang.
Other smaller touches expressed the chefs’ creativity, like the two types of butter offered with the oaty homemade bread. The piped beetroot butter was pleasing to the eye, but I preferred the sweet pepper butter – something I’ve not seen anywhere else. The friendly, knowledgeable front-of-house staff also deserve a mention.
After such enormous main courses, we opted just for ice cream to round off our pleasant evening at The Blue Lion, selecting a scoop of chocolate, hazelnut and rum and raisin. It was busy for a Tuesday night, and it’s clear that the pub, tucked away along a quiet residential road in this unassuming village, has a wide and loyal client base, and deservedly so.
The Blue Lion, 74 Main Street, Hardwick, CB23 7QU 01954 210328
