Enjoy a taste of artisanal Cambridge
The term ‘artisan’ gets thrown around a lot, but what does it actually mean? And where can you find hand-crafted, ethically sourced food in Cambridge? Elisha Young reveals the best our city has to offer
When you hear ‘artisanal food’, what do you think of? It’s possible you’re imagining obscure and region-specific eats being expertly crafted by an elderly man. While this can often be the case, the unique blend of history, heritage and cutting-edge technology in Cambridge makes its artisanal food scene stand out from the crowd.
By definition, these are foods made in small batches via traditional methods – by hand instead of mass-produced and industrially manufactured – and normally using high-quality, local ingredients. They are the result of combining passion with expertise. So where can you get hold of these delicacies in Cambridge?
Maybe it’s a sign that I’m getting old, but I’ve started to appreciate a well-curated cheeseboard – and there’s no better place to indulge than at The Cambridge Cheese Company. This independent deli stocks over 200 cheeses alongside chilli sauce, olive oil, cured meats, local honey and handmade marmalade. You can even buy Dorstone cheese (with its citrussy tang and goaty flavour) that has been matured in Cambridge cellars. The business cares about its sustainability too; partnering with Foodstuff for zero-emissions local deliveries, buying from ethical suppliers and reusing as much packaging as possible.
Cambridge Gin Laboratory on Green Street offers customers something a bit stronger. The distillery was founded with the intention to create gins from fresh, delicate botanicals, which it does using its state-of-the-art ‘novo-dimensional distillation matrix’. This might explain its title of most innovative distillery in the world, awarded three times in a row. Its Curator’s Gin was developed in collaboration with curator of Cambridge University Botanic Garden Professor Sam Brockington, and even incorporates apples from Isaac Newton’s apple tree.
In terms of artisanal bread, we’re spoilt for choice. Grain Culture, based in nearby Ely, made it into Britain’s Best Bakeries by Milly Kenny-Ryder and was named a top bakery in The Times. Independent bakery Stir, in Cambridge, focuses on developing its unique sourdough flavour from quality ingredients and slow fermentation. Starting as a small craft bakery in 2017, it now has five locations around and beyond the city, baking award-winning bread fresh daily to supply local institutions such as Cambridge University and the Fitzwilliam Museum.
There’s also an incredible range of local delis and farm shops to choose from. Culinaris sells homemade bread and has a well-stocked cheese counter (try the wild garlic yarg). The Gog Farm Shop hosts a craft butcher selling high-welfare meats from Suffolk, plus Cambridgeshire produce and Pinkster gin. You can find Burwash Larder nearby, which also has an extensive cheese counter (I bought some excellent Pyrenees Brebis), an incredible offering of fresh produce, locally sourced meats and a rotating bakery selection from suppliers like Webbsour and Mini Miss Bread.
‘Artisanal’ is often used too liberally, but Cambridge is home to many people passionate about their craft, ingredients and products. I hope you get to try some of the food I’ve described – and appreciate the time and care in every single bite.
Ethical, sustainable eateries
There are plenty of opportunities to enjoy artisanal foods fresh from the oven at venues around Cambridge. Stir (above) has cafes in Chesterton and Histon, while Vanderlyle on Mill Road is a vegetarian fine-dining spot offering ethical, seasonal and sustainable dishes on its menu.
Michelin-starred Restaurant Twenty Two sources ingredients from local establishments Cofarm, Cambridge Asparagus and Flourish Produce in Hildersham, featuring foraged crops as well.
Follow Elisha on Instagram @elisha.eats to read her food blog and for more local finds.
