Trying to keep warm as the weather turns? Elisha Young has rounded up some of the best spots in Cambridge for a curry, from Indian favourites to interesting variations
You probably associate the word ‘curry’ with a warming Indian meal from the local takeaway; the ideal indulgence as winter sets in and everyone is craving hot, rich, filling food, full of flavour. But thanks to historic trade routes spreading curry (and the spices necessary for it) from place to place, it makes sense that nearly every country has its own spin on this dish.
It’s easy to get into pedantic debates about what actually constitutes a curry, especially since no one can even agree on the etymological origins of the word itself, but a curry can be broadly defined as: meat, protein or vegetables cooked in a spiced sauce and served with rice or bread.
Flavours of India
Since India originated the concept of a curry, let’s start there. When I asked for recommendations, Tawa Kitchen was by far the most mentioned – with a particular endorsement for the Nellore fish curry (tilapia cooked in shallot and mango sauce). I’ve only visited Tawa for lunch before, but just reading the menu made my mouth water, so I’d say it’s worth making the journey down to Cambridge station to see what the hype is about.
Another recommendation was The Tiffin Truck on Regent Street, which is clearly a popular eatery because it was packed when I visited, yet the service was still fast and efficient. The menu is big and varied, but I ordered Chettinad fish curry in a spicy, tangy sauce with basmati rice and garlic naan. The curry arrived steaming hot, flavourful and with perfectly cooked fish that flaked apart at the touch of my fork. A highlight was the garlic naan: fluffy, light and packed with punchy garlic without being doughy or greasy. Side note: I treated myself to gulab jamun for dessert and I had to mention it because of how good it was – a warm, dense doughnut ball soaked in fragrant sugar syrup.
For a fine-dining spin, Navadhanya offers a seven-course tasting menu for vegans, vegetarians, pescatarians and
meat eaters alike. I would recommend it if you want an elevated dining experience. If you’re just interested in curries, though, they have those aplenty. The lobster moilee sounds particularly good, with butter-poached lobster, coconut milk, turmeric, Keralan spices and spiced naan. On the à la carte menu, you can also find rabbit nihari, with rabbit leg, mace, green cardamom and caramelised onions.
Just want the tried-and-tested classics? Prana on Mill Road is the place for you. Here, you can find chicken korma, butter chicken and lamb jalfrezi. But there are options for the more adventurous too, like the intriguing annans haash with roasted duck breast, creamy coconut milk and fresh pineapple. My uncle frequently orders from Prana because the chefs are able to cater for his coeliac diet and offer gluten-free dishes – plus there’s a whole vegan menu.
A taste of Thailand
For Thai curries, the same three restaurants were recommended to me repeatedly: Sala Thong, The Wrestlers and Luk Thai at the Cricketers. Luk Thai and The Wrestlers are Thai restaurants that operate out of pubs, so if you fancy a cheeky pint with your curry, you know where to go. Sala Thong was reputedly Stephen Hawking’s favourite restaurant – high praise!
I love the creamy, coconut-milk-based curries you can find in Thailand, and my favourite is the underrated yellow curry. It isn’t as fiery as its green counterpart but is richly flavoured with lemongrass, turmeric, garlic and cumin. And I also love the jasmine rice served at Thai restaurants, which is fragrant, slightly sweet and sticky.
The journey continues…
Azuma in Cambridge Market Square
If you’re on the hunt for a more unusual curry variant, then markets and food trucks are your best bet. I’m a big fan of Azuma (@nyonya.ramen.9) in Cambridge Market Square, which specialises in Malaysian and Japanese food. Dishes are cooked hot in front of you on a griddle and then served swiftly and in generous portions. Here, you can choose either a Malaysian chicken curry or Japanese katsu curry. I’ve tried the katsu, featuring a crispy-outside, juicy-inside cutlet of fried chicken that was generously doused in kare sauce with a side of pickles, salad and a heap of rice.
Tibet Flavour (@tibetflavour) is a food truck that serves vegetarian and meat curries paired with rice, lentil dhal, handfuls of coriander and a healthy serving of aromatic chilli oil.
The appeal of curry is its versatility. Whatever you might be in the mood for, Cambridge has you covered, from a quick bite to a full tasting menu. Try something different and you could discover a new favourite comfort food this winter.
See Elisha’s Instagram @elisha.eats and read October’s article for up-to-date reviews of eats around Cambridge
