All images: Charlotte Griffiths
Charlotte Griffiths finds that to get some sugar-dusted treats, you simply have to plan in advance
Popping out for doughnuts is no longer a case of nipping into the bakery and grabbing a bag of six jam-filled doughballs – if you want the finest high-concept holed treats that our city has to offer, you’ve got to work for it.
Securing one of these sugar-dusted sweets is a game of chance, skill and ultimately, luck – so be patient, plan ahead, and read our guide before you set out on your quest.
1. Shelford Delicatessen, Great Shelford
Doughnuts on Fridays only, from 8.30am
On Fridays the sugar-dusted set moves south of the city, where Shelford Delicatessen has taken on the challenge of creating a weekly flavoured doughnut for the masses of foodies who flock to this completely brilliant independent eatery. Shelford Deli’s doughnuts go on sale on Fridays as soon as the doors open in the morning, and as with Urban Larder (below), you can’t expect to turn up at lunchtime and still get a doughnut for yourself – the secret’s very much out. Expect sensational, seasonal fillings such as blood-orange meringue, honeycomb and salted caramel or even a millionaire’s shortbread – and whichever flavour’s on show, it’s guaranteed to be one of the best doughnuts you’ve ever encountered.
Secured yourself a doughnut? Don’t forget to wash it down with one of the Deli’s coffees – amongst Cambridge’s most delicious cups – or if you’ve been unlucky, you can console yourself with another bake from their stellar line-up of sugary goodies.
Whatever you do, don’t leave without swerving into the Aladdin’s Cave of a delicatessen and the huge range of astonishingly high-quality produce they offer – all from exciting, independent suppliers.
2. Urban Larder, Mill Road
Doughnuts on Thursdays only, 11am
The weekend starts early for Cambridge’s army of doughnut fans: on Thursday mornings the sugar-fuelled swarm to Mill Road for the 11am unveiling of Urban Larder’s already-legendary home-made doughnuts.
If you’re keen on sampling these stuffed sweets for yourself (and you really should be) then we recommend getting there ahead of time, grabbing a coffee, and joining the hungry hordes who’ve schlepped from nearby offices in anticipation. Do not arrive at 11.30am and expect to get yourself a doughnut, as you will almost certainly be out of luck – once they hit the counter, they do not hang around.
If you’re not into queues, another trick to secure a ’nut is to follow Urban Larder on Instagram and keep a look out for Doughnut Dave – if you can guess the weekly guest flavour correctly before the tray of doughnuts lands, you’ll win a free doughnut of your very own. Strolling past the pack to collect your prize? Victory’s never tasted so sweet.
When we dropped by, the two flavours on offer were a traditional blackcurrant jam filling, and a lip-smackingly-delicious glazed Boston Cream guest – every single one of which disappeared from the counter within half an hour. Yes, it requires a bit of forward planning, and no, it’s not guaranteed that you’ll be able to take one home with you – but my goodness, these doughnuts are absolutely worth the kerfuffle.
3. Midsummer House, Midsummer Common
No list of doughnuts in our city would be complete without, arguably, the UK’s most high-class version. For years, guests to Cambridge’s only Michelin starred restaurant, Midsummer House, have finished their meals with tea, coffee and a basket of still-warm bottereaux, neatly tucked into a folded napkin.
We snuck in between services to get a taste of Midsummer’s legendary final course and were not disappointed: the fried parcels of pastry arrived with boats of apple sauce and a Calvados-laced crème anglaise, designed for dipping.
It had been years since I last tried them, but it’s clear that the beignets haven’t moved from the menu with good reason: they’re feather-light, meltingly brief, and the perfect full stop for an exquisite dining experience.
Midsummer is imminently switching from tasting-menu only to an a-la-carte offering, but it’s unlikely they’ll call time on this most elegant way to close a meal. Still – just in case – what better excuse to treat yourself to a visit sooner, rather than later?
4. The Anchor, Burwell
I’m making it official: it’s all going on in Burwell. I guarantee you’ve got at least one friend who’s just put an offer in on a house there, and two or three more who are actively looking at moving to this increasingly vibrant Cambridgeshire village. One of your pals’ many reasons in the ‘pro’ column will undoubtedly be Burwell’s growing foodie scene, which has sprung to the attention of urbanistas from Cambridge and Newmarket alike.
It’s primarily The Anchor, on the village’s western edge, which has slowly been generating excited chatter amongst those who love to eat.
This 18th century inn is now owned by well-respected local chef Ben Crick and his sidekick, Jean-Mary, who have overhauled the menu to offer – as they put it themselves – “Good food. Simply.” It’s regularly packed out with a blend of delighted locals and those willing to make the trip. So where do the doughnuts come in? The Anchor serves them with salted caramel sauce and a scoop of the Saffron Ice Cream Company’s finest, and they make a completely splendid way to round off a visit.
The doughnuts are now a regular feature on the Anchor’s menu – but do call ahead to make sure if you’ve got your eye on the prize.
5. Soboro Bakery, Petty Cury
A bit of a curve ball, but no less delicious for it – Soboro Bakery’s savoury doughnuts have been intriguing and delighting their customers since the shop first opened on Petty Cury in the summer of 2017.
The bakery’s range of Japanese- and Korean-influenced bakes makes for a interesting change to the city centre’s high-street’s usual fare, with matcha croissants, chicken katsu sandwiches and – most importantly for this piece – a small collection of non-sweet doughnuts.
Choose a filling from potato croquette, chicken curry, or ham and cheddar (my personal favourite). Coated in panko breadcrumbs and fried, they benefit from a little warming and are definitely not for the faint-hearted – but what self-respecting doughnut is?