With the arrival of new chef Rosie Sykes, Nicola Foley samples the Pint Shop’s new autumn menu
Every local foodie knows (or should know) that the Pint Shop is one of the eateries at the forefront of Cambridge’s ongoing gastro revolution. Specialising, as their slogan promises, in ‘Meat. Bread. Beer’, this popular Peas Hill venue have upped their game even more in recent weeks with the appointment of celebrated chef Rosie Sykes, who, as well as being a regular food writer for The Guardian, is known for setting up acclaimed gastropub The Sutton Arms in Smithfield, London.
As a Cambridge local and Pint Shop regular, the new post was a match made in heaven for Rosie, who says: “I quickly realised that we share a lot of values; a love of British food, a commitment to impeccable provenance and a passion for seasonality. Pint Shop is doing really amazing things and I was keen to be a part of the story. I truly admire their ethos.”
Having been fortunate enough to sample her new menu, Edition can attest to the fact that she’s doing marvellous things in the kitchen – taking Pint Shop favourites and putting her own innovative spin on them, as well as introducing lots of interesting new additions. It’s hard to pick highlights from a menu where pretty much each and every dish looks irresistible, but stand-out starters include the smoked haddock pastry with candied beetroot and orange, deep-fried back ribs served with chilli and fruit sauce and the rather intriguing-sounding southern fried rabbit, which comes accompanied by a green sauce. Our personal recommendation, however, is the heavenly bacon and egg croquettes: perfectly crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside, which arrive with a dollop of rich plum sauce for dipping. Exactly the right balance of textures and flavours, and lip-smackingly good for it.
The mains list doesn’t slouch either, with options including overnight pork belly with braised cabbage, apple and smoked bacon, and the soon-to-be legendary devilled lamb shoulder kebab (with home-made flatbread and super-hot chilli sauce). This culinary masterpiece, loaded with tender meat and fresh, crunchy salad, elevates the humble kebab from drunken error of judgement to bona fide, elegant fine dining fare. Bravo, Pint Shop!
Prices start at £5.50 for starters and £10 for mains.
