Tried & Tested
Privacy, peace and piggeries; Phoebe Harper escapes to a sanctuary for the city-weary
A little over an hour’s drive from Cambridge on a quiet Thursday afternoon lands me in the rural heartland of Suffolk, navigating winding country lanes to the outskirts of the historic village of Coddenham. Here, in neighbouring Hemingstone, I park amid a sea of green and feel my shoulders sink back to where they should be on the short walk to the old shed buildings that house reception. Bags in tow, I shake off the city to a cacophony of birdsong while a pair of piebald horses graze idly in the next field.
I have come to spend the night at Retreat East – a luxury eco resort that’s grown to attract a mammoth following, including a list of celebrity clientele, since the member’s club was opened to the wider public back in 2020. Originally beginning life in the 16th century as a working farm, today the estate encompasses 35 acres and a host of barns (including family-friendly and dog-friendly options), shepherd’s huts and a stunning farmhouse which houses everyone from wedding parties to solo escapees seeking sanctuary in the countryside, rather like myself. The Great Barn has earned a reputation on the Suffolk foodie scene from both residents and non-residents alike, while the on-site spa more than caters to those looking to de-stress with holistic massages and therapies by Elemental Herbology.
The entire concept was originally conceived by owner Dominic Richards, a London-based architect who decided to take a gamble on a derelict dairy farm and reinvent it as a haven for the city-weary folk of London looking to recover from the all-too-familiar burnout.
Time for tea
I head straight to the Great Barn, a Scandi-style open space flooded with natural light and dominated by a vast brick fireplace flanked with leather sofas – the kind you long to sink into on dark winter evenings. I’m here to sample the afternoon tea, which has recently been revamped by the retreat’s new pastry chef. Embracing the holiday spirit, I immediately upgrade by adding a glass of champagne (a sparkling afternoon tea costs £35pp, compared to the classic package priced at £29pp.) Three tiers of an artfully presented array of your favourite usual suspects soon follows, alongside a few deliciously unexpected morsels with original flourishes.
A showcase of great British produce, much of it from East Anglia, I particularly enjoy the Dingley Dell sausage roll crowned with apricot purée and the fig leaf bavarois, made using the estate’s own fig trees, that looks rather like an oversized Fruit Pastille. I find the savoury selection is often where afternoon teas fall short, but you can forget notions of dry, curling finger sandwiches here. This delectable selection is full of surprises; my highlight is the choux bun bursting with rich braised beef and oozing with a peppercorn custard and English mustard. Served warm, it’s a beautiful contrast to the cold salmon served with a zingy horseradish crème fraiche on sourdough. I gorge on a beautifully thick scone lavished with clotted cream and Tiptree jam, then request a box to take away the honey opera cake made using the produce of the estate’s bees – plus a homemade doughnut with garden berries – to enjoy in my room later.
Green and pleasant land
Before the 3pm check-in, I take a stroll to work off my indulgence, past the hives that teem with the culprits of the honey cake and the veg patches where the restaurant sources much of its farm-to-fork ingredients. These are just some of the ways in which the retreat commits to sustainability, including the solar panels on the Great Barn, the Grind coffee machines in each barn, the borehole used to source its water supply and the estate’s on-site sewage plant, which I pass thankfully at quite a distance from my accommodation.
As the summer’s inclement weather threatens another heavy downpour, I am reminded of the Barbour wellies available at reception, as well as the complimentary mountain bikes for hire should I wish to explore on two wheels instead (you’ll find them right next to the doggy shower and spa!). Wandering through fields teeming with oxeye daisies as tall as your knees, I make my way along a mown path to the signature giant deckchair and sit a while on meadow-watch. Although the picturesque Suffolk coastline and the historic wonders of Sutton Hoo are just a short drive away, I am completely loath to leave this small slice of Eden.
One night only
I’m holed up for the night in The Piggery – one of the historic dairy barns that still retains many of its original features. With one bedroom dominated by a vibrant- pink four-poster, a wood burner and a stunning slipper bath on a pebbled floor, it’s easy to see why it’s considered the most romantic room on the estate. Immediately, I’m seduced by the tasteful interiors and the lingering rose-scented aromas of the Loggique cosmetics – a far cry from the odours of the space’s original use.
Under its timber-framed ceilings, the space houses creature comforts like a Smeg fridge, coffee machine, rainfall shower and some welcoming goodies including Pump Street chocolate. Outside, I have a large private courtyard area to myself, entirely hidden from view just a stone’s throw from the Great Barn. Feeling lazy, I lean into the cosy vibe as the rain descends and light the fire after ordering dinner to my room. I dine on chicken served with wild garlic, black truffle, baby carrots and barley while sipping on a large glass of Lebanese red as a Richard Curtis movie plays above the fireplace. It’s nothing short of heaven.
With full use of the spa included in any stay, I have booked a private 9pm slot in the outdoor jacuzzi before turning in for the night. Under stormy skies, I sink into the bubbles, all the while watching a curious muntjac nibbling on the low-hanging branches surrounding me just a few feet away. Unsurprisingly, the night passes silently. I wake to the prospect of another private spa session; this time half an hour in the sauna and steam room with a reinvigorating dip under the ice water chute. The stay comes to its sad end with a fantastic spread of continental breakfast, which is also included in the nightly rate.
I walk away with batteries recharged, slightly reluctant to return to the city. If you’re in need of an escape without having to leave the UK, then there’s no better time to go east – no matter what the Pet Shop Boys might tell you.
Phoebe Harper was a guest of Retreat East and stayed at The Piggery. Prices fluctuate depending on season and days of the week. Check pricing and availability at retreateast.co.uk
